Studio Makeup Chick

Thursday, October 4, 2012

FREE MAKEUP GIVE AWAY!! EYESHADOW GUIDE FOR BROWN EYES TOO!!

Did you know brown eyes are the most common eye color in the world?  I have brown eyes too even though I am a natural blonde.  So that combo is rare!  Don't worry though if you think having the most common eye color makes you common.  It doesn't have to!


Brown eyes have been tested in studies & found that most who look at photos of attractive people (men looking at photos of women & visa versa) with the ONLY change in the photo being the eye color, the face stays the same & the tester is asked to choose which "look" they find the most attractive or friendly.  The study put the same 6 or so faces for testers to choose from, without knowing what, if anything, was different about the faces. All test subjects, male & female choose the faces with brown eyes!  They did not know the only change in the photos of the people was the eye color.  Yet they all choose brown eyes!  When asked why, & still without knowing what was the change in each face, they said the photos with the eyes changed to brown were "warmer, kinder, friendly, approachable".

The experts who put on the test found the reason the testers that viewed the photos of the same faces with only eye color changes choose brown eyes, is because the black color  pupil of the eye is less visible in brown colored eyes.  In blue, green or hazel eye colors the pupil contrast was stark & therefore when the flash from the camera & the lighting used in taking the test subjects photos caused the pupil to contract, it showed more in lighter colored eyes.  A constricted pupil stands out more & appears hard or mean to most & they don't even know why.  None pointed out the pupil size and contrast as why they felt constricted pupils looked less warm, they were judging by the faces alone.  Brown eyes conceal the contrast between brown eye color and the black pupil.  So when the pupil in a brown eye is constricted, it is not as noticeable & therefore brown eyes appear warmer and kinder.

Great news for those of us blessed with brown eyes.  We are not common, we are perceived to be kinder, warmer and more approachable!

That being said, lets move on to eyeshadow tips for brown eyes:

1- Choose neutral colors.  You can & should accent with color, but only accent, not over entire eyelid!

2- Apply a concealer or eyeshadow primer all over lid, lashes to under brows. BLEND! Apply a light dusting of powder with a large soft face brush.

3- Choose a beige, off white or champagne color & blend across eyelid completely.  Work some of the light shadow into the tear duct area.  Use a Q-tip to place it there.  More control & less fall out of shadow on the face.

4- Take a medium size shadow brush, dip into a brown, rust, gray, wine, deep green or dark navy blue eyeshadow, blow off excess (&/or place a square of toilet tissue, folded in half under eye from the mid point outward, slant it up) and apply from the outer part of the eyelid inward.  Keep that same one direction of application.  Not back & forth, only inward strokes, from outside the eye towards inner.   Lighten your pressure as you reach the mid point of the lid.  You should press harder on the outer eyelid, blending upward & soften your pressure coming in.  This technique allows the color to deposit darker on the outer part of the eye and blend to a softer shade towards the mid point.

5- Grab the first shadow brush used for the first light color & without adding more shadow, just blend over the entire lid to blend the two colors.  Use a soft touch & feather strokes!

6- Line upper eyelid with a black, dark brown, gray, dark navy or the same tone chosen for eyeshadow color.  If using an eye pencil, warm the tip by stroking it on the back of your hand, this warms the pencil a bit & helps it glide across lid better on your lash line.  Blend with a thin, short bristled eyeliner brush. Use brush to blend the pencil color a bit past the outer lash edge of eyes.  If using a liquid liner, use a liner brush, not the wand that comes with the liner.  You'll have more control.  Take the liner off the applicator tip with your short bristle eyeliner brush & line at lash roots, starting on the outside working in.  This gives a stronger color to the outside (cat eye) of the lid and softer inward.  Blend!

7- Take a pointed Q-tip (be sure its pointed, not regular) dip the tip into your selected eyeshadow darker color (you may want to dampen the tip of the Q-ip slightly with water) & starting from outside, gently drag the color inward to the halfway or 3/4 way of lower lashes.  Remember to lighten your pressure as you move inward!!  That gives you a stronger color along the outer lower lid & softens the color deposit as you move in towards the tear duct.  Do not go all the way!  Turn Q-tip over to the unused side & use the clean tip to blend your line.  Pressing softer from the outer edge & increasing your pressure as you blend in.  This is reverse of the upper liner & darker eyeshadow application blending!  This technique leaves a darker color on lower lid lash line on the outer edge of eye & lightens the color inward.  Creating a larger eye look in a very subtle way!  Its all an illusion of light & dark contrasts to create a larger eye.  Lining upper and lower lids with black & no blending provides no contrast & looks harsh & makes eyes appear smaller & squinted.

8- Grab another pointed Q-tip & dampen it a tiny bit, dip the tip in your first lighter color shadow & gently blend your lower lash liner color from the mid point inward.  This blends the darker lower lash shadow liner & gives the illusion of no stopping point for the darker color, which looks stark & awful, & seamlessly blends the darker lower shadow right into the lighter shadow.  Blend the lighter color shadow on your pointed Q-tip right into you lower tear duct area.  Looks great and youthful, plus really opens the eyes!

9- Curler lashes & apply black mascara to upper lashes (coat both sides of lashes, on top & under). While it dries, apply eyebrow pencil or shadow to brows.  Be sure the color you select is one shade lighter then you hair color!!  Creates a youthful look!  Blend, define & Blend again.  Now on to mascara on the lower lashes using a Dark Brown mascara!  This is a slight difference but creates a fantastic eye opening look and contrast!  No more then 2 coats of each!

10- You are done!  Be sure to check your face and under you eyes for eyeshadow fallout.  Clean up with a clean angle sponge moving in an upward diagonal motion along the outer edge of eyes.  This gives a defined, lifting, clean effect.

I hope my detailed instructions helped!  I have read too many "makeup application guides" that tell you virtually nothing about how, what or where to apply products!!  I will be giving more variations of colors for making the most of brown eyes soon, as well as other eye colors!


2 of my numerous Studio Events ID's
Career Fact- I was an originator of the "lighter color applied to the tear duct area".  I did it before anyone else back in 1990 to create the wide eyed & brightening look without having to line the inner lower lid.  I created it for a certain celebrity I worked on due to her sensitivity.  I also used this brightening trick on my brides.  I realized the white liner on the inner lower lid wears off fast & ends up as eye matter globs!  Brides tend to cry & the tears really wear off inner lower eyeliner, so that is why I placed the brightening color in the lower tear duct area, on the skin, not the inside of the eye.  Looks so amazing with a white wedding gown & in photos!!  Now all do it, but it was me who started the trend! Colors that look great applied to inner, lower tear duct area are: Golds, Silvers, Frosty Ice Blues, Lavenders, Soft Matte or Frosty Pinks, Champagne Shimmers & naturally Whites.
My Business card with Oscars ID's & before/afters

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Good luck my beauty lovers!  I look forward to hearing from you & answering your beauty questions!  Keep in mind, for you locals, I am more than only a beauty tip provider!  I now design Hair & Lash Extensions at a PS Salon!  Come see me and finally have the hair the celebrities have (since I was responsible for many of the hair/makeup looks celebrities have), the hair you dream about!  You will not find another Hair Extension stylist anywhere near this area that can come close to my expertise and background!  I have an exclusive 100% human hair contact in the Studios that supplies all my hair!  Also all the hair for major celebrities & I am the only one that has that access!

Hope to meet some of you soon & others who are far away, I look forward to helping you with any beauty questions you have!

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Beautifully Yours,
Lisa,  "The Makeup Chick"